Today, we had the pleasure of hosting a wonderful couple from Australia on a tour to Ninh Binh province to visit the Van Long Nature Reserve. This is where we organise one of our most popular and rewarding natural history tours: “Ninh Binh Nature Tour: Langurs, Limestone Karst and Wetland Wonders.”
What’s so special about this tour? It provides our guests the opportunity to observe extraordinary limestone karst formations (giant geological pillars that tower over the landscape) as well as encounter an abundance of waterbirds, birds of prey, clouds of subtropical butterflies and stunning wetlands that stretch to the horizon.
However, the true highlight of this tour is the opportunity to observe the critically endangered Delacour’s Langur. This remarkable primate, considered one of the rarest and most beautiful in the world, has an estimated population of fewer than 200 individuals, all of which are found in Ninh Binh.
Our morning began pre-dawn as we travelled south from Ha Noi. Whilst leaving around 5.30am can sometimes be a challenge, it’s imperative to get out of the city before peak hour traffic sets in. After an hour or so of driving, the first mammoth pillars of limestone karst began to float up out of the distant morning mist, we knew we were close. Along the way, we observed Eurasian Kestrel and Eastern Marsh Harrier hunting along the highway, always a great way to start!
Upon arrival, our team we greeted a nice cool morning and a variety of waterbirds including Grey Heron, Grey-headed Swamphen, White-breasted Waterhen, Whiskered Tern and a nice flock of Eastern Cattle Egret. After a quick bathroom break and landscape photos of the stunning cliffs in beautiful morning light, it was time to search for the Delacour’s.
The Delacour’s Langur is a highly sought-after species, and it’s easy to see why. Its glossy black coat, accented with a silvery sheen, contrasts strikingly with the bright snowy white fur around its lower waist and legs, giving it the appearance of wearing white shorts. Its triangular-shaped head and long, black, pipe-cleaner-like tail add to its distinctive look—the tail often draped elegantly when seated or held high above its head while navigating the limestone karsts. Beyond its striking appearance, the Delacour’s Langur are critically endangered, with fewer than 250 individuals remaining in the wild, it is not only one of the rarest primates in the world, but one of the animals most threatened by extinction.
Arriving at our first Delacour’s spot we were greeted by Blue Rock Thrush (pandoo form), Light-vented Bulbul, Amur Stonechat, Greater Coucal and a handful of White Wagtail. Making our way through the wetlands, we kept our eyes peeled. Suddenly, there! A flash of black and white on the mountainous limestone karst. But no luck—it was just a group of feral goats. Unfortunately, this is a common sight in Ninh Binh, where goat meat has become a regional delicacy. As a result, these animals are frequently spotted roaming the limestone karsts.
On we continued, passing by considerable numbers of Chinese Pond Heron (most in partial or non-breeding plumage), Sooty-headed Bulbul and clouds of Lemon Pansy, Orange Tiger and Painted Jezebel butterflies. Then, movement caught our eyes. Looking up toward a nearby peak, we spotted a flash of black and white, followed by a long tail unfurling from a clump of bushes. Binoculars up, and there they were — Delacour’s Langurs! Three of them, perched majestically high on the limestone karst, a truly magnificent sight.
We spent the next hour or so watching the group navigate the limestone karst, leaping effortlessly from crag to crag and spire to spire. Before long, they wandered off, vanishing into the figs, psychotria, and other trees that make up the lowland limestone forest blanketing the peaks.
We were doing really well for time, so we decided to go try one of the other spots to see if we could potentially find another family group. On the way, we slowed down to check out an Eurasian Kestrel, White-throated Kingfisher, Blue Whistling Thrush as well as a solitary Paddyfield Pipit who perched perfectly silhouetted against a whole section of the wetlands that was covered by at least four different flowering species of lotus and waterlilies.
Pulling up at our next spot, the first highlight was a Green-billed Malkoha, who bounced in typical fashion through the foliage of some nearby trees, before startling a Pallas’ Squirrel. Before we could do much more a Blue Rock Thrush shot passed our heads and perched halfway up the nearest karst spire. Following with our binoculars, we suddenly noticed a whole troop of Delacour’s Langur sitting up in the morning sun staring down at us. Two different family groups in less than an hour, what a great morning! These langurs seemed a little more skittish and they quickly clambered off to the other side of the karst, however our team managed a few quick shots and around 5 minutes of viewing first.
Next up, it was time to hit the wetlands. We returned to the main area on the southwest side, readied our little boats and set off into the reeds, lillies and flights of dragonflies. For the next hour, we enjoyed spectacular encounters with all of the Red River Delta’s finest. We had Chinese Pond Heron, Purple Heron, Garganey, Little Grebe, Asian Openbill, Common Kingfisher, Pheasant-tailed Jacana, Eurasian Moorhen, Eurasian Coot, Eastern Marsh Harrier, Zitting Cisticola, a Six-spotted Zigzag Ladybird and a small group of Cotton Pygmy Goose, as well as all of the usual egrets (Great, Medium, Little, and Eastern Cattle).
To wrap up, we turned our attention to the roots of the mountain karst, exploring areas where the lowland forest transitions into wetlands and limestone terrain. These zones are often some of the most productive for wildlife watching, as they form a meeting point of diverse habitats. Also, as the day warms, many species retreat to the cool shade of the mountains, making this a prime spot for observing them.
We had a great run here today with great encounters such as Common Picture Wing (one of the most unique dragonflies of this area and always a great poser for photos), White-throated Fantail, Asian Tit, Dusky Warbler, Crimson Sunbird, and ever a brief Ruddy-breasted Crake that shot across the path in front of us. The highlight came later when we reached a section of flowering vines and understory that was absolutely teeming with butterflies — at least ten different species fluttering amongst the lantana in gorgeous morning light. Among them were the stunning Golden Birdwing, Common Pierrot, Striped Ringlet, and the always enchanting Red Helen Swallowtail.
As we made our way back to the car, looking forward to a traditional Vietnamese lunch and a well-earned coffee or two, a rustling in a nearby Common Red-stem Fig (Ficus variegata) caught our attention. To our delight, it was an Assam Macaque — our second primate species of the day and a perfect way to wrap up the tour.
If you have enjoyed reading about our outing (and are ready to experience for yourself!), please feel free to visit our tour page (Ninh Binh Nature Tour: Langurs, Limestone Karst and Wetland Wonders) or send us an email for more details!
